Sunday, February 7, 2010

Sunday, February 7





Sirirat and I went to go visit the old sad lady again before church. she cried again. "she cries alot" sirirat told me. she has 12 children and more than 100 grandchildren and great grandchildren.

on the way to the church there were two dogs having passionate, loud sex in the middle of the road with a third dog standing by to watch. sirirat pretended not to notice the debauchery. I laughed out loud.

i spent the hour before church started filling 8 million mini shot glasses with red grape juice from concentrate, aka. the blood o' jesus. I pretended I was filling them for a party and for a breif moment, thought to myself, "man, we shoudl have made jello shots out of these, they're just the right size."

during church i sat in the middle of the 3 smiling sisters- noy nah, nid noy, and yui- and we had a thumb war championship. I ate the bread for communion at the wrong time.

i met a lady from NY at the church named Dar. she had fallen in love with a local guy, married him, divorced him and married another thai man. she had been here for over 30 years already! Sirirat invited Dar and her husband over for lunch. Dar liked to talk alot and i liked hearing english. Her daughter was the same age as me and desperatley wanted a job working at the UN. Thought she had done everything right (including speaking 6 languages fluenty), she hadn't had any luck. I told Dar that sirirat had lots of connections at the UN, Dar worked them. sirirat hooked her up.

i left early to go teach my english class but dar invited me to their home in the mountains next weekend. The class was packed. After 45 or 50 kids had showed up. more kept coming every week and i hoped it was because they had been telling their friends how awesome the class was. more likely because they wanted to get out of work, about 10 of the kids from the broom family were there. just the little ones, all filthy and grinning. They were far behind and spoke zero english but were enthusiastic to participate in everything. we played what time is it mr fox to work on numbers and time. then i passed around a bag of clothes while whistling all aroudn the mulberry bush the monkey chased the weasle and when i stopped whistling, whoever had the bag had to pull something out and say what it was. they were so funny about passing it around that I coudln't whistling form laughing so hard. have you ever tried whistling while you are lauging, or even smiling? its impossible.

after class sirirat's cousin whose name was X (seriously), his daughter cheeon and the littlst orphan noy na to some gardens in the mountains (something liek the bontantic gardens in denver but way more intense)cousin X stayed in the car. he was tired and not intersted in going to the gardens. so i took the girls ages 6 and 7 to check it out. neither one of them spoke any english but i've discoevered that the younger the kids, the easier it is to communicate with them without using words. I shwoed them how to use my camera and let them take as many pictures as they wanted. we took loads of silly pictures whiel running along the garden paths and through fountains. all of our hands were sweaty from holding on to each other the whole time, but none of us wanted to let go.

After dinner we got out some balloons that someone had donated to the orphanage and I taught the kids how to make balloon animals, flowers, hats. It reminded me of when I was little adn used to dress up as a clown for my sister's birthday parties and paint her friends faces and make balloon animals for them. we all walked home with extravagant baloon hats on singing and acting out:

skidamarinkidinky dink, skidamarkinky do, I love you.
I love you in the morning and in the afternoon
i love you in the evening and underneath the moon
ohhhh
skidamarinkidinky dink, skidamarkinky do, I love you.

which i had tuaght them to add to their repetoire of english songs which now includes:

we wish you a merry christmas
head shoulders knees and toes
the hokey pokey
and
skidamarinky dinky dink.

New world record book fact: the cheapest rent in the world: the houses behind the church are being rented for ..... drumroll.... 200 baht A YEAR (about $6 per year)

Saturday February 6

Sirirat brought me to an award ceremony she was being honroed in this morning. she seemed as disinterested in it as i was.

most of the rest of the day we spent just hanging out. a slow saturday. i spent the morning drawing pictures with the orphans and doing portraits of them.

sirirat brought me over to her neighbor's house to invite them to come to my english class tomorrow. a few of them had come by the week before but she said most of them had to work on sundays helping their families. there was a mini family factory making brooms going on there. inside the house of thatched straw roofs ands walls and mud floors were about 40 or 50 people, all related according to sirirat. they worked 12 hours a day, including the kids when they wern't in school, on everythign from painting sticks for the broom handles to wiring straw-liek plants together for the part you sweep with. The first family of 5 we talked to had already made 600 brooms that morning.... it was only 1 oclock. sirirat said she wasnted to bring some of the orphans over to see how hard the kids were working here since she thought some of hers were pretty lazy. nothing like the strong influence of child labor to motivate hardwork.

Ayah (one of the older orphans) showed up to dinner with her hair cut short. she seemed self concious about it. i loved it. i made sure she knew. after dramatically approaching her with gleeful gasps, i tucked her hair behind her ears and put my hands on her face. "soooaye" i repeated a few times, "beautiful". she leaned into me andd gave me a long tight hug. "i lob you P. Jenny" I think that was the first time I had heard her speak english, it was like hearing your name as a baby's first words.

I had told sirirat i wanted to do somethign special with all of the kids and she suggested taking them all out to icecream. "Their favorite thing!" she told me. So after dinner we made the trek to the icecream shop. A huge group. They argued over who got to hold my hand. I ended up with a couple of each arm and hand. When we saw a big snake on the sidewalk, they all shrieked and clung to me. I enjoyed feeling like I was protecting them even though I was just standing there with no intention of going any nearer to the snake. The icecream shop had exactly 3 flavors. I couldn't figure otu what any of them were just by looking at them to i pointed to all 3 and mimed for him to mix them together. he looked at me like i was an idiot. I couldn't figure out what they were by tasting them either but the mixture of whatever I got was MARVELOUS. The kids slowly licked their icecream cones (which I don't think I've ever seen a child do before), savoring the sweetness with huge smiles. For a grand total of about $4 US I was a hero. AWESOME. The icecream shop hada TV in the corner playing Tom and Jerry dubbed over in Thai. we stayed until the end of the show. I laughed in all the right places.

Nid NOy held her arm up next to mine to recheck our color pallettes. She pointed back and forth at both arms, grinning, "same, same! P. Jenny!"

Friday, February 5, 2010

Friday, february 5






I think i may have started a senior citizen's sunrise biking club. singyam met up with me in the dark again this morning to go biking and this time she had invited four of her friends. i was meeting all the bad-ass old ladies of chiang rai. all the women i'd met before didn't like to break a sweat or any type fo exertion so this was a rare treat. everyone had their flashlights in the bike baskets. they liked my headlamp which they called a "necklace of light" when i left it around my neck. one lady had what appeared to be a squey dog toy lashed to her handlebars with rope. whenevr we passed anyone that she knew, which was most of the town, she squeaked it at them. she also squeaked it in response to trucks that honked at us for drifting too far into their territory on the road. i kept thinking she would follow up the squeak with her middle finger, but she never did. we went a different route today than we had yesterday following the main road more. singyam had told me that she would take me to see the flowers and when we got there i knew exactly what she meant. it wa a huge public garden but it was closed until 8 and it was only 7. supon took down the bamboo rails blocking the gate and climbed through, motioning for the rest of us to follow. we did, leaving our bikes at the gate and feeling rebellious. we walked through the gardens, the only witnesses that monring to how a hundred purple orchids looked with the red light of the runrise on them. we stayed until the orange ball rose above the lake, hanging there to check how it looked in the water, and a security guard came by to scold us for breaking in. he didn't seem too angry but shooed us out anyway. when we got back all the women said that they wanted to go every day next week.

when i finished helping nit with chores and english lessons, i wandered back over to singyam's houe. she was boiling some green water on the stove that had big leaves in it. i asked her is it was tea. she said no but gave me a cup to drink after she added a pinch of smaller leaves. "good for heart and..." she pointed to her back "for farmerswho work very hard." her brother was a farmer and i could only assume she was making it for his sore back. it smelled like leaves and tasted sort of bitter. singyam had a big winge bottle filled with Pen's dad's homemade honey in it and i asked her if i coudl add some to the not-tea. she said, with her finger in the air as if she had just had an epiphany, "THAT is a VERY good idea." She added some to hers too. the sweet plus the bitter combo was delicious. "ah roi" i told her. she agreed.

when nit came into my room to tell me it was time to go to work, she saw andrea gibson's poetry book "pole dancing to gospel hymns" on my bed. It had a picture of an organ on the front. " christian book?" she asked me, probbaly recognizing the word "hymn" from the front of her church's hymn book which had the title in english adn thai despite the fact that the entire thing was written in thai. "Poool dancing," she read slowly. I hoped she would ask me what poool dancing was. i wanted to tell her it was a type of dance for worship. i still hadn't answered her first question. "Nit" (she was referring to herself in the third person constantly), "Nit like to dance, you like?" " yes, i like to dance" i told her, smirking to myself at the way the conversation had played out in my head.

Thursday February 4





no school today. or tomorrow. the students all have exams.

Yesterday I was talking to my next door neighbor singyam about biking. Singyam and i have been hanging out fairly often latley. She noticed that I have been biking alot and told me that she liked bikign too. I asked her if she wanted to come with me sometime so we could bike together. she seemd sort of lonely. I sort of assumed that she would say no. Although she is pretty tough, she's about 67 years old. Singyam told me that she didn't like to bike in the heat so i told her we could go in the morning when it was still cool.

"ok!"
"tomorrow?"
"ok!" she told me
I asked her what time
"6:00 we go" she said
I agreed

this morning at 6 am she was already waiting for me outside. she was dressed for a ski trip. winter parka, face mask, hat, gloves. i threw my fleece on and stuffed some crackers in the pocket to eat on the road. Singyam had a dim flashlight in her bike basket as her bike light. we stoppe at the market a few blocks away to pick up her friend supon that singyam had invited to come alaong. supon was also dressed for a mission to antarctica. we rode all the way to the airport taking only back roads. thailand mornings are shrouded in fog and i imagined we were riding through the mists of avalon bareback on white horses. when the sun started to com up and the pink sky reflected on the fog turning it into cotton candy, i felt mor like i was in rainbow brite's cloud kingdom. we rode pretty far and singyam and supon kept a good pace the whole time. as we turned around to head back, they hopped off their bikes to walk for a few minutes. singyam pointed at her butt as she got off her bike "hurt" she said, wincing. when we got back singyam and supon told me they wanted to go again tomorrow. excellent!

Nit was waiting for us at home still in her pajamas with breakfast ready. she was appalled that we had been gone for 2 hours and "biking ride" the whole time. "wan khanot!" i told her happily (it was alot of fun!). she smiled and clapped at my use of the new thai phrase she had taught me the day before. i traded language with her some more after breakfast, tutoring her in english for nearly an hour. she wanted more but i told her that was enough for today. i had to think of a better way to break down irregular verbs and their tenses to her. she coulnd't understand why the "will be verb+ing" (we will be cooking tomorrow)format i had taught her to simplify the future tense didn't always work.

we rearranged the kitchen to make room for the new cabinet we woudl pick up that afternoon. the amount of clutter in that one room made me want to tear through everything and throw half of it away an i deperatly wanted to put a fresh coat of paint on the dirty faded baby blue walls. i smiled to myself though as I rehung the huge framed clock of 3 holographic kittens next to a calendar with the king's picture on it.

when nit brought me to her office later, she had to teach piano lessons but another teacher there had a free hour and decided it would be best spent educating me a little bit about playing the guitar. i was impressed by how well he was able to teach me without using any english at all. after a while, he gave up and sang me a song. "this is a love song" nit said to me as she walked through the room. she said something in thai to the guy singing that made him blush but he kept playing. when nit's husband came by, looked at me, and said "come," i followed him, no clue where we were going. we picked up nin (their daughter) from school and then walked to the market to get snacks and food for dinner. nin kept asking me what i wanted to eat for a snack. i have no idea what anything was so i told her to choose for me. she picked out some bright pink jelloey blobs and come clear jelloey blobs that had green vegatables in the middle. they were both terrible but i ate them anyway to see her smile. "you like?" she asked me. i nodded, lying.

nit stayed to teach and nah A (uncle A/ nin's dad) took music, nin, and i boating. we drove down a dirt road to a small pond where they stored a red plastic rowboat underwater. we pulled it out and washed it out with a bucket. i was fairly certain that i would sink it when i got in but i didn't (it did sink about 3 inches though). Nah A tied a long to the front of the boat and the other end of the rope to a tree. just in case. we paddled around for a little while while the sun sank and the pond lit on fire from the red in the sky. we stopped now and then for music to put his plastic fish in the water and pull the string that made it wiggle around. nah a. pulled us in with the rope when it got dark and re-sunk the boat. i felt like we were storing away a secret.

nin got her exam scores that night (kids here have to test to get into good schools for the 7th grade) and the results warrented a lottery-win-jumping-frenzy and phone calls to everyone she knew. our giant family dinner that night was one of celebration.

Thursday, February 4, 2010

Wednesday, February 3


I taught a few classes in the morning and the time went by clowly. I tutored Nit over lunch for about an hour working on her tenses. She was a good student. Nit said we were going to her office around 2. I still had a little free time. I went for a long run through the rice fields again knowing I shoudl be dying with how little I run at home but high altitude living proved to have its advantages. I coudl run forever here and not even be breathing hard. I waved to the farmers in the rice fields as I passed them, they were all starting to know me by name now rather than "America". They waved back.

Instead of going to Nit's office, we picked up her husband, and went to somethign like a county fair. Nit and I walked around for a few minutes while her husband negotiated the prices of a new cabinet for their kitchen. There were loads of people throwing darts at balloons to win giant stuffed animals. In between the baloons booths were people selling pigs heads, rice, and fried unidentifiables. Between those were small shops selling knock offs of everything you can imagine. It was hot under the tents and smelled like sweat. Nit kept asking me if I wanted to buy anything. I didn't. We met back up with her husband who had purchased th ecabinet. We would pick it up tomorrow. They took me to run a few more errands while I got more and more confused by our final destination. I didn't bother to try to figure it out. I was along for the ride at this point. We stopped at a cardealership to investigate a car their family was thinking about purchasing. Though they talked witht the representative for a long time and meticulously examined a half a dozen cars, they just left with a brochure. Just when I was beginning to wish I had stayed home and spent the afternoon reading or anything other than what we were doing, we stopped a small museum. My prize for being dragged around. Our tour guide spoke very good english and told us about every king's ceremonial costume fromt he last thousand years as she pointed them out in glass cases. We were the only ones there. The museum was surrounded by beautiful fowers and when the tour was finished, out guide made us tea to drink in the garden. My favorite part. The tea was bitter like green tea but had a sweet after taste. When I asked her what it was called she told me emperor tea.

Nit and her husband plyed tour guides again and took me to an arts and cultural center. It belonged to the quens mother before she died and now it was like a big park with loveley landscaping for people to visit. Instead of walking, we drove around the park. I am constantly forgetting how Thai people hate to sweat or exert themselves at all. Nah A (Nit's husband) insisted I leave my camera in the car, indicated that he woudl take pictures on his and give them to me later. He took about 8 zillion pictures in only the most unattracticve places with the worst lighting. Before we left we stopped at a pavillion set up like a msall museum that had displays about teak wood and a few art pieces. The oman there din't speak much english but followed us around anyway, reading the title signs (which were written in english) with a bad accent. I desperatly wanted to point out to her that I coudl read them on my own but restrained myself.

We finally made it to Nit's office where I hung out for a while while she tutored kids in piano. Her daughter, Nin came over when she was done with school and Nah A came back with their son Music a little while later. Nin and I played games in the waiting room for a while. Her english was very good and she loved speaking it. Then we all went to pick up take out for dinner. Gam and Denoi were sleeping over (the kid's cousins) so it would be a full house.

After dinner, Everyone hung out in the living room together and I discovered their faily collection of photo albums thinkign it might be a good start for some attemped english conversation. They obviously hadn't looked through them in a long time and poured over the books, laughing and pointing, and telling me who was who and who old they had been in that picture.

Tuesday, February 2


Nit brought me halfway to meet Sirirat this morning. In the parking lot, she dropped me off at, we met up with Nid- a musian and Ajah Kis who we carpooled with to a prison about an hour away where Sirirat works with the prisoners on a regular basis. They were happy to see her when we arrived. Sirirat told me thta most of the prisoners were Buddhist but some were Christian and more became Christian every time she went. I was going to see conversion at work.

The prison was actually suprisingly beautiful if you irgnored the high walls, barbed wire, and bars surrounding the entire facility. One of the prisoners was a painter and had painted murals on many of the walls in the prison and prisoners with too much free time on their hands had sculpted incredibly colorful gardens.

We set up by soem picnic table under a pavillion. About 30 men caem over to meet us. Nid sang some songs, Sirirat nad Ajah Kis alternated preaching important Christian somethings and Sirirat baptized about 5 men. One man was being released the next day on good behavior and Sirirat seemed to attribute that to him becoming a Christian. She presented him with a pair of cheap flip flops like they were the holy sacrament and he recieved them as if they were. He didn't have any shoes and would need some when he was released. He stood up to sing the next song with his eyes closed, flip flops in hand and arms waving around to the music as if he was a gospel singer in New Orleans. After it was over I had a crowd of happy prisoners come up to me and shake my hand, laughing nervously. "Hello!" and "America!" were the only English phrases they knew and they used them over and over again. As we walked over to the women's side of the facility to repeat the same bible camp bussiness, everyone we passed reached out to touch my hands. I felt like a really awkward famous movie star that had just figured out people were actually watching her films. One of the women told Sirirat that she had had a dream the night before that we would come. Another woman carried a small child, maybe one year old, who was fairly cross eyed and coudln't seem to figure out what to make of me. He looked like he was going to cry but instead just stared. Sirirat took a photo of me on her camera with the women that has come over to talk to me. "Jenny and prison friends!" though I was sure I would be glad to have th ephoto later to remember them by, I hated her right then for ruinging the moment of connection and turning me into an instant tourist.

While I was eating dinner with Pen that night, a student came over to interview me for her English class. Furthering my awkward famous feeling. She was older than the students I had been teaching and I hadn't met her before. She had clearly practiced all her questions and tape recorded the whole conversation (probably so she could decode it later). She asked me what my favorite food was, if I played a sport, and if I had a pet. I told her I used to have a dog and a turtle but didn't have a pet now. She didn't know what a turtle was so I drew her a picture of one.
" What is your pet's name?" she asked.
I told her Bruce Wayne.
"what is this meaning" she wanted to know.
"Its Batman's real name I informed her.
" Ah Batman!"
She knew Batman but I'm fairly certain that she didn't understand the connection between the words "batman" "Bruce Wayne" and "turtle"
She moved on. When she was finished she gave me a scarf and thanked me about 20 times I asked her if she had made it and she said yes and then no. I'm still not sure if she actually did or not.

In the evening I tutored Nit in English again.

Before bed I asked Pen if she had any mouse traps. She didn't understand. I drew her a picture. Nothing.
"rat in my room" I told her, drwing a picture of a rat. I charaded the ray dying dramatically by choking myself to death.
"ray? Oh!" (lightbulb flashing on) "Kewwwwl rat!"
She took my hand and pulled me over to the cabinet where we had a box of rat poison. The label was entirely in Thai but the title was repeated in english. Large red letters read RAT KILLER. She used her finger to follow along and read slowly "Raaaat kewwwwler!" Smile. I nodded enthusistically. She put some of it on a plate and I showed her where the rat had been sneaking in, crinkling bags nearby and putting my hand to my eyes to dramatically search for the invisible rat. she laughed. "OK! Today, rat kewwwwl!" She smiled "see you tomorrow!"

I stayed awake most of the night guiltily listening to my rodent roomate eat to his death. I had only ever caught mice before and put them outside. The idea of intentionally killing one sort of really bothered me. But rats here carry nasty diseases and this one was an escape artist. I sighed and put my headphones in to silence my screaming consience so I could sleep. Murderer.

Monday, February 1

I tuaght 4 classes this morning- one for a double period. PInky (their teacher) wanted me to work on prepositions with the two 9th grade classes from their workbook. I finished the exercises in the workbook quickly and made up a game to play with the kids to build on the work I had done with them the week before on directions. I drew a few mazes on the board and had the students dirct me tas to where I should go. the first time I just drew it on the board as they said it, going the wrong way if they indicated that I should The second time I also wriote sentecens for each direction on the board and the third time I had them write the direcetions out. Next I worked with 2 first grde classes on their ABCs. I stayed and hun gout with the last class for a while until lunch continuing to work with them. Their teacher didn't seem interested in teaching and indicated that I could stay. They were pros in the ABC songs and writing their letters by the time i was finsihed with them. I did my laundy in the afternoon and went for a long run through the rice fields. After dinner Nit pulled me into the living room to talk. She really wanted to learn english and had designated me as her live-in tutor. She had borrowed some books on conversational english (which were terrible) and was ready to practice speaking. I was stoked to have a student that was so eager to learn after a semi- frustrating morning with the students from the school and got right to work with her.

I got lost in my book until midnight. So much for rationing out the books I brought. I was woken up by a aloud rustling noise. Still half asleep, it startled me. I grabbed my flashlight and shined it on the intruder, afriad someone was in my room. My light illuminated the biggest rat I've ever seen. He escaped through a gap between the walls and the stairs (my room is under the stairs) and revisted me throughout the night. Everytime I shined my light on him he ran away. A all night game of flashlight tag ensued. While I was lying awake, I tried to think of a simple way to let Pen know I had a giant rat as a roomate.

Monday, February 1, 2010

Sunday January 31st








sirirat and i stopped on the way to church at the sad old lady's house again. she was listening to bible verses on tape in Thai and when we got there she started crying. I asked sirirat why later and she said it was because the woman was sad that she couldn't go to church. We gave her some bananas as consolation.

we got to church really early as did some of the kids from the orpahange and I had some paper adn crayons in my bag for class later that afternoon so I passed them out. The kids were stoked and immediatley turned to sit on the floor and use the chruch pews as desks to draw on. we all got in trouble when the church service started and many of the kids kept drawing. I tried to be a good role model, turning around and paying reallllly close attention to the speaker who might as well have been speaking martian. I stared innaproriatley at an ancient woman sitting across from me. I had helped her in when she first came into the church and loved watching her. After the service was over I asked Sirirat to translate for me. I wanted to take a photo of the old woman to paint a portrait from. The woman loved the idea of being painted and smiled toothlessly for my photo.

we went to a member of the church's house for a prayer group (ah!) and lunch. we ate some really spicy soup that i chased with water to get down. Then I was handed something that looked like sliced up.... fruit? I watched people eating it an spitting something out but I coudln't figure out what it was and Sirirat was praying with someone so i didn't want to interrupt. I put it in my mouth and felt around fo r aseed or pit or something to spit out. Nothing, I swallowed as about three people watching me shouted in thai. Sirirat came over and explained to me that with fresh sugar cane you chew like gum and then spit it out. don't swallow any. She said its good for your teeth. hmmm. i think my dentist would disagree.

after church was english class. a bunch of kids from town showed up along with the kids from the orphanage. We spent most of the class working on body parts. I taught them head shoulders, knees, and toes and the hokey pokey. It was hilarious watching them try to do it and the little kids especially loved shaking it all about. 3 hours flew by and we even went over time. no one left.

sirirat brought me back to her house after class and sent me with Gam (her neice) on an errand. Gam had to pick up a package for her cousin in Burma and Sirirat wanted me to see the border town but not cross over. she didn't think it was a good idea. I couldn't figure out why. I had read in my guide book though that they only reissue 15 days visa to thailand after entry. Sirirat sent of the kids from the orphanage with us. One stayed with me at the border, the other went with Gam to Burma. Pooey volunteered to stay with me. She was one of my favorites, a little artist and we had bonded right away. Gam said we had about an hour so we started walkign around. The border town was mostly just a big market with locals selling knockoff sunglasses and purses. I wasn't especially interested. I bought Pooey some candy adn she was infinitley happy. Easy to please. We found steps that looked liek they led into the sky and decided to explore. 300 steps later (we counted) we got to a small buddhist temple and shrine looking out over the city. The view was incredible and there was only one other person up there. probably due to the work that was required to get there in the first place. I could have stayed up there all day ratehr than go back down to the crowds in the markey but pooey indicated that we shoudl go back down and i couldn't tell if we were supposed to met Gam or just to go down (she didn't speak any english at all) so we headed back. Gam wasn't there so we just walked back and forth abotu 20 times. I made her give me directions to walk in english like we had practiced in class. she was good at it and she told sirirat smiling proudly as soon as we got back. :-)

Sunday, January 31, 2010

Saturday, January 30


At 5:30 am we left sirirat's house for our big day trip to Chiang Mai. I was relaly excited to see the city and had read about it in my guidebook. Wehn i first got to Thailand I had told sirirat that I really wanted to see the elephant reservation there if we could go and I was hoping we would get a chance to see it while we were there. We dropped her nephew Denoi off at his school for a field trip and Sudaporn ( her sister), Gam (her neice), and I drove the 4 hours to Chiang Mai. The drive was gorgeous, through a hilly beautiful countryside. We pulled over tot he side fo the road on the way there and sudaporn shouted across the street to a vendor selling what looked like sticks. She exhanged a few baht for a bag of them. It was sticky rice mixed with pumpkin and coconut milk, stuffed inside fo bamboo and burned. Delivious. When we got there we went directly to church. (seriously). By the time the 3 hours service was over, my nails we sparkling clean. sirirat's brother was there and he took us to eat lucnh at his house in the mountains. It was gorgeous and the view was stunning. After that, Sirirat told me it was time to go home. I was baffled. We came all the way to Chiang Mai to go to church? On the way back we stopped at a hotspring right off the highway that looked sort of like a slimey shallow pond with lots of locals selling keyshains with the name of the hotsprings on them. We also stopped at the white temple. It was closed so we coudln't go inside but I took a quick picture. Gam and Sudaporn waited in the car. the temple looked liek it was carved out of ice in a fairytale where the wicked ice queen ould have lived. I liked it. Then we stopped at the night baazar in Chiang Rai. The streets were filled with people selling food, trinkets, and clothes. Above the strets were strung green lanterns and the full moon lit everything. The smells alone were intoxicating. Every 10 feet was a new one. We bought a few different things to taste. One was a really thin tortilla filled with something that looked like dried grass shavings mixed with hemp rope. I was skeptical with sirirat promised me it was "yummy yummy!" It was. The grass was dried sugar cane shavings and it tasted sweet and melted when it touched my toungue.

Friday January 29

Since there was no school today ( atudy day for the students), Pen's daughter Nit had promised to take me to work with her. she worked as a muci teacher, teaching piano lessons. We were to leave at 10 she told me the night before. I woke up early to make breakfast with Pen. She was stoked on making pancakes with me and had gotten a mix special. We ate them drizzled with fresh honey her father had made from the bees he kept on his farm. A man from korea but now living in chiang mai came over to talk to pen. he was teaching a seminar on family values and christianity. The conversation quickly turned to only Thai so I brought my book outside. Nit came out around 11 to tell me she was sick and wasn't goign to work. sirirat came to pick me up shortly after that and brought me back to her house for lunch. Sirirat had to rest in the afternoon. She was exhuasted and had been sleeping at the hospital all week. Her neice Gam had been in the hospital with a stomach bug and was now fine. I found the internet cafe and caught up a bit on emails i hadn't been able to read all week. At 4 I went and met the kids from the orphanage as they got out fo school. They ran up to me and hugged me excitedly. I had missed them. They walked back to sirirat's with me and hung out for a bit. Sirirat gave me a bunch of projects to start working on. Designing a card for the orpahage, helping make some posters with the kids for presentations, etc. I was happy to have a job and got right to it. She showed me some articles on child sex trafficking she had written as part of her dissertation on her computer and I was fascinated. I didn't realize that Thailand was the sex traficking capital of the world. Some of the kids from the orphanage had been involved. I showed her my art website and she began introducing me to people as as famous artist. I laughed. At dinner I finally figured out who sirirat's dad reminds me of (it had been bothering me since I got to thailand.) He looked exactly liek the actor from the last king of scottland. Except his eyes were a little more slanty. And when he ate and his lips stuck out, he looked like sebastian from the little mermaid.

Thursday, January 28




I woke up early this morning with the mistaken assumption that we woudl leave for school at 7 like we had the day before. I took ashwoerd, got dressed, adn was ready to help make breakfast by 6:30. Despite the fact that Pen was already up and in the kitchen ( her husband leaves early to go work on the farms), she told me to go back to sleep, we didn't have to leave until 8 today. Breakfast at 7:30. I was wide awake so I just read until 7:15 to make sure Pen didn't cook without me. I didn't want her to feel like she had to serve me food. I was too late though anyway. " Breakfast ready!" she said enthusistically as I walked in. She had poured me a bowl of cereal, something that resembled cornflakes but didn't taste like them and some toast with the crust cut off . I cut up the banana she handed m and put it in my cereal trying to work up the will of eating the enormous amount of food in front of me. "American breakfast!" she said proudly. I nodded. Pen's daughter Nit (about 35 yo) came in to talk with me while I was eating breakfast to practice her english. She kept looking to her mom for help with words but her mother's enligsh was just as bad as hers.

I headed over to school with Pen who headed right up to her office. I went in search of someone who could tell me what was going on and what i could do to be useful. There wasn't anything. The teachers were all just hanging out, talking on their cell phones, and plucking white hairs from each other's heads while the students took down the tents and cleaned up from the night before. I tried to help the students disassemble tents.. something I was at least familiar with. When that was all finsihed there ws sa large closing ceremony where they sang, recited, and took down the flags. On looked at me. "finish" she said. "You can go home now." It was only noon. I clarified that nothing else was going on in the afternoon and I shoudln't come back. "fre time, you." she told me. I waved goodbye and started to walk back. A car with dark tinted windows pulled up next to me. I coudln't tell who was inside but I didn't recognize the car and took a few steps back in case it was the creeper it seemed to be. The window was stuck so he opened the passenger side door to talk to me. The man inside was American. I had to take a step closer to see through the door. "I'm Christopher," he said. " I run the dormitories at the school, Pon Pen told me about you." I sighed. relieved. She had told me about him too. "What are you doing now?" He asked. He wanted me to come back to his house with him to meet his wife, ester. It was so wonderful to hear english! I told him twice as I got in the car. He filled me in on his frustrations with the education system here and told me he and ester had come to live her 15 years about as christian missionaries. Ester was from Holland and very friendsly . They had two kids who wern't home. We chatted for a few minutes. they didn't invite me in but told me to drop by anytime. It was getting close to lunch and Pen had said she woudl meet me back at the house for lunch so I said goodbye and walked back, promising to visit.

When I got back to the house, the doors were locked so I went over to Singyam's house next door and hung out for a little while. Singyam was tutoring someone in Thai. Another American! Billy was about 65 and he and his wife had moved here in July to (shocker) spread some christianity in Thailand. He looked like Mr Feeny on Boy Meets World. I couldn't believe I hadn't seen a single foreigner in a week and had just met two in the last hour. Billy told me to come by his house anytime and we coudl pray together. excellent. We talked for a few more minutes until Pen drove up in her car.

We made bok choy and rice and fried eggs and some soup she had bought in a little plastic baggie that had cucumbers, onions and broth in it. " You like veg-e-table, no meat! ve-ge-ta-ble!" She said pointing to the bok choy like she did with every meal as if it were the first time she was realizing this fact. I nodded enthusistically to re-enforce this and rubbed my tummy with a thumbs up "Ah Roy!" (delicious!) She was pleased.

Pen had to go to school for the afternoon even though there were no students and she instructed me to rest with a sleeping chracde. I said "OK!" even though I wasn't tired at all. As soon as she was gone I did my laundry quickly and hung it up in the sun to dry. The sunshine felt good on my face and I was eager to explore so I took the bike for a long ride. I headed down the main road I had gone down a few times already and decided to turn off on a small dirt roads to check it out. It seemed fairly safe and I was curious. The road led back behind the school adn through rice fields as far as you could see. It was beautiful. I loved it. I decided this woudl be my getaway spot. I would share it with the three cows that seemed to roam freely on the path there. One was a baby. Imagined the other two were its mom and dad. I made up a love story for them in my head. I went closer tot he baby to take a photo and the mom splayed her ears, growled and grunted at me as if saying " back off bitch." I did. The cow was big and seemd pretty pissed off. I snapped a few photos as I backed away slowly. She relaxed. the dad ignored me the entire time but was standing in the middle of the path completley blocking it. I walked the bike around him to avoid making him angry. He didn't care. A huge tree next to the irrigation ditch showeered orange flowers. I stopped to pick one up as it fell to the ground and put it in my bike basket for Pen. I decided I should probably get home before someone started to worry about me since I had already been gone for a couple of hours.

When I got back, no one was there so I took my book outside and got lost in the English language. when Pen returned she expressed her concern that my skin was getting too dark and that it might turn black. she wasn't worried about me getting burned, she was worried about me getting tan. No one here liked dark skin., I tried to assure her that I liked the sun and skeptical, she brought me out a wide brimmed hat to at least save my face. I put in on to appease her and took it off when she went back inside. The warm glow on my face felt fantastic. We ate leftovers for dinner which were still on the table under and upsidedown basket to protect them from flies. who needs a refrigerator? We talked for a while until the school director came to pick us up in his truck. I had no idea we were goign anywhere let alone where we were going. We drove for about half an hour and turned up a dirt road. The older kids from school were doing their camp our here and had prepared a show for the teachers. They started it off by passing candles out to everyone. The director lit his and then lit all the teachers. We then lit the students candles and they helped light each other's. when all the candles were lit some words were soken that I coudln't understand, probably a prayer- i bowed my head just in case- and the director stepped forward to the middle of the circle where a huge pile of sticks an logs had been set up. He lit the bonfire with his candle and then indicted for th eteachers to do the same. All the students followed and soon the fire was ablaze. It reminded me of the candle light ceremony at shady brook. Even without words the message was very beautiful. Someone got a microphone and started the show. They began with a little parade aroudn the fire. A;l the students dances and the boys carried 6 of the prettiest girls in the parage on seats they had built out of folding charis, bamboo poles, and a bunch of leaes and flowers. They pulled me into the parage to dance with them. Thre was much dancing and singing alternated with skits the students had clearly created on their own. I had no idea what was going on most of the time but it was pretty funny. I didn't bring my camera but many of th teachers were taking photos and I asked them to send me some. I think they understood.

Wednesday, January 26th



Today there was no school. Instead all the kids some for "campign day." something like a field day with games and then the kids eet up tents and spend the night at the school. We got to school early to help set up. Pen had to leave before the festivities began since her sister was having some sort of minor surgery (indicated by cutting motions from chin to belly button, and the words "hospital" and "small"- hopefully smaller than her charade.)On took me on as her charage again. Sweet. We painted all the kids' faces with a smelly concotion of babypowder and red food coloring that had been mixed in a bowl with some leftover mushroom paste in it. The combination made it smell like death. Since we used out fingers to do the painting, our hands also smelled like death and were stained a bright red possibly eternally. We also made up some awful smelling (and from the kids faces, tasting) bread. On thought it would be funny to make the kids eat it and laughed when she made them chew and swallow the bread coved with mushroom paste, lods fo black papper, and butter smeared on top. I thought making kids practically gag was cruel so when she turned her back, I gave them silent permission to spit it out. Most of them dutifully chewed and swallowed the whole thing with horrified looks on their faces and no complaints.
The station I was sent to run for the day ( I couldn't figure out what the others were but ours looked liek loads more fun) was a tunnel of low branches over a trench of mus and water. It came out at the end ina wooden painted cutout of a tiger and the kids exited through his mouth after they had army crawled through the whole thing. We used a hose to spray through the tunnel walls and them and they shrieked when they got doused with baby powder at the end. It stuck nicely since they were already wet and completly the mess. A bunch of the kids wanted to go twice. A few of them raced to the hose and sprayed off, hating the dirt and eager to wash up. I planned on incorporating something similar at summer camp this year for messy olymipics. American kids ALL loved getting muddy.

Pen and I cooked noodle soup togetehr for dinner and then she dropped me off at a campout at the schoo. I didn't realize she wasn't staying. The campfire hadn't started yet so I sat down at a table with a bunch of teachers that were finishing dinner. They all tried to feed me but I had learned my defnese! The thai word for full- im. They were impressed though I had to keep repeating it every couple of minutes as someone new offered me food. Thai people are on par with italians for how much their lives revolve around food. I wished I had a bigger stomach.

We painted up a few kids for a fire dance. On alternated black elctrical tape and white masking tape on their stomachs while I used the same terrible pink concoction that had turned my hands pink earlier to cover their faces. I'm fairly certain they woudl have used somethign similar traditionally. The kids danced aroudn the would be fire with sticks alight, then lit the fire with them. They sang a bunch of songs and did some skits the kids all laughed through but I coudln't understand a word. It seemed something like closign campfire at shady brook.

Tuesday, January 26th

When I woke up in the morning, Pen had already made me breakfast and was waiting for me. We ate together and then drove (across the street) to school. I hung out in her office for a little while in the morning while she made some phone calls and collected papers. She handed me off to the primary English teacher named On to go to the student's morning gathering.

The first thing On told me on the way over (after she asked my name and how old I was of course): "I have many foreign boyfriend so I know English good! I no like Thai men. Black skin. I no like black skin, like white skin. Foreign men very sexy, white skin. Do you like black skin or white skin?"
I was still processessing. "Yeah. I like all skin colors," I told her.
She responded laughing at me like I was insane, "Not me! white is much better!"
I caught myself immediatley judging her and tried to keep an open mind. She obviously liked talking about men. "Do you have a boyfriend now?" I asked in a feeble attempt to bond.
"Sort of, not really boyfriend. He likes me alot thought and will come to see me soon I think."
I asked where he was from.
"He live in England. We talk on internet almost every day. He thinks Thai girls sexy!"

I breathed a sigh of relief when we got to the field. All the students stood in lines based on their grade and at attention like they were in the military. They sang the school song and made some announcements in Thai that I couldn't understand, then someone cam eover to me, pulled me over to the microphone, and handed it to me "introduce yourself." I went though the same routine I had already gone through 15 million times making sure to say my age. I'm pretty sure at least 90% of the students had no idea what I was talking about.

On the way to On's classroom where she tuaght first and second grade we passed the playground which looked like it was straight out of a get-your-tetnus-shot commercial. "what do you like to do when you are not teaching?" I asked her trying to avoid contractions. Her English was good but not that good. She kept asking me to repeat things.
"I like to read magazines like Cosmo and watch fashion on Tv and go shopping!" She had just made a list of everything I hated to do. I braced myself and waited for her to ask the same question, the proper reponse. She did.
"umm, well," I tried to pick activities I thought she would know the words for, "I like hiking," She gave me a confused face (bad choice). "walking up mountains." I charaded until she acted like she understood. "Climbing, swimming, reading, writing, and teaching." She looked perplxed when I said teaching as if I had misunderstood the questions. I couldn't possibly ENJOY that could I?

When we got to her classroom, she opened a workbook up and pointed to a page. "Can you teach this page to.... (she flipped forward a few pages).. this page?" Sure. That seemd easy enough. Some direction was greatly appreciated instead of just heading "ok, teach" The page was talking about the days of the week. The lesson was very boring and the students wern't very interested. On stayed in the room the whole time and kept interrupting. She translated a few of the directions. The first graders didn't know any English yet. She was keen on sticking to the worksbook and kept pointing to the page and saying, "you read...." Maybe I liked having no direction better. At least the students were engaged then.

Her second grade class was about the same. This one was one sports with more workbook pages to fill out. They would forget it the next day. I tried to have them stand up and act out the sports but they didn't understand what to do and On said it was better for them to stay seated. I checked their workbook pages to mak sure they were all correct. one little boy had barley done anything. I offered to stay and help him for a little while since we had a break. "Oh don't worry about him," On told me, "he is lazy." I was pretty sure he had Downs syndrome but chose to ignore the comment instead of getting into an argument.

We went back to the teacher's loungue for a short brek where I met up with the secondary English teacher I had worked with the day before. Pinky (yes that's relaly her name) had me administer an exam on numbers to a 9th grade class. The students could spell out numbers over a billion but couldn't converse with me in basic english. Next she had me teach her other 9th grade English class again. This seemed to be the remedial english class. Pinky had given me the workbooks the students were using and this class was supposedly on the 3rd one. I had picked some vocabulary from the first one to review and play a game with. The vocab was on shapes and directions including under, over, next to etc. The teacher had told me the students like art so I tried to incorporate it. After I reviewed all the vocab with them, I had each student draw a simple picture with shapes and a few lines (she would only give each of them 1/2 a piece of paper) and then they had to sit back to back with a partner and describe their picture so their partner could draw it without looking. Though in theory this was supposed to be a review, they had no clue what was going on and the entire activity was a huge failure. I abandoned it quickly with the thought to move onto something simpler. The teacher had stayed this time. and told me " they are not very smart, they don't remember anything." I suggested the simpler directions game I had played successfully with the third graders the day before. "You should teach them some art in english." She said. "They like art."
"ok... what do you mean?" I asked, trying to get an idea of what she was thinking. I thought she was talking about art history or something along those line which would have been hopeless. She clarified. "You will draw a picture on the chalkboard and they will copy it." Okeydokey. No enlighs. no originality. "anything in particular you want me to draw?" I asked. She said, "some cartoons, maybe the tazmanian devil." Instead, I drew, a dragon, a turtle, a pig, and a dinosaur (by request) all of them with speech bubbles saying something in english. Then I had one of the kids come up. A boy that was rather flamboyant, liked to dress as a girl, and I had discovered was very popular with the whole class and loved to be in the spotlight. I had her/him pose for me and drew her portrait. She loved it. The kids were totally into it and copied my cartoons exactly onto their papers. They were very talented but nothing was embellished, alteres or original on any of their drawings.

After lunch there were no more english classes for the rest of the afternoon. There was some sort of boy scout camp going on the next day and the teachers had to prepare for it. On asked me to go shopping with her for supplies for the camp so she could practice her english. Since I didn't have anythign else to do adn no one else coudl talk to me, I agreed to go with her. We went to a huge supercenter- something liek a super walmart, then down the street to the street market vendors. She stopped again on the way back to school and told me to wait in the car. She was gone for about 25 minutes and I tried not to imagine her performing sexual favors for an old foreign man in exchange for drugs or money or makeup. I redirected my scandelous thoughts to daydreaming about nicer things.

We went back to school and as I started to walk home, Pen called out my name. She was heading back too and wanted to go together. Her pleasant prescence was a relief after spending the day with On. i told Pen it seemed that even after many years of learning enlighs, the children didn't know any. She explained to me over about an hour of attempts that the children learned english and chinese in school. Most of them were from hill tribes and had to learn thai as well since the hill tribes spoke an entirely different language. Learning 3 complex and very different languages at he same time woudl stump me too! She said that most of the students were very poor and came here from the hill tribes because they got a scholarship for free schoo. They stayed in the dormitories next to the school because their homes were too far away. She said that the students being poor was the first big problem adn the seocnd was that the school also did not have much money. She said the next time I talked to my mom and dad to ask them to pray for the school adn the students (I think she assumed that I already was). I told her I would try to raise some money when I got back to send tot he school and she told me praying was better. I thought maybe both would be nice. It only takes about $230 to sponsor a student for one year- school fees, books, uniforms, food, dormitory costs, everything. any takers?

Pen and I sat at the table in her kitchen and snaked on oranges and fried sweet potatoes (i think) She went to run errands and I asked if I coudl take a bike for a ride. I had seen a few behind the house. I rode in steadily increasing rain exploring for about an hour. Enjoying the cool drops on my face. I passed many houses and small farms before I decided to go back. Pen and I cooked dinner together Stir fry veggies, soup, and rice. She tuaght me a few Thai words and phrases and quizzed me on them repeatedly, pointing at different foods on the table and body parts. When her husband got home from work, we sat with him while he ate. Pen wen tto go take a shower before she left for evening worship at the church (she didn't think i choudl go since I wouldn't understand... thank god) and left me with he husband who barley spoke any english. I tried to keep a very simple conversation going but gave up after about 15 minutes when he turned on the news and it became clear that he was much more interested in that than talking to me.

Thursday, January 28, 2010

Monday January 25

Sirirat told me we would leave her house at 6:30 am sharp for her to take me to the school I would be teaching at for the rest of the week, so i got up extra early to help prepare and eat breakfast. Needless to say, we didn't leave until after 7. Siriat always seems to be rushing and is somehow still always late. A very busy woman! she dropped me off directly to the school so I left my backpack in somone's office and was herded into a teacher's meeting. Sirirat said something in Thai to the teachers and I heard my name. "Good," she said to me, " see you." I waved and said thank you praying that someone in the room spoke english. I attentivley listened to Thaiu for about half an hour befor the school director pointed to the english teacher and told me in ratehr rough english to go with her. Phew! She breifly introduced herself as Pinky on the way to the teacher's lounge type room. Her English wasnt very good considering that she taught it and her accent made it really difficult to understand her. "sit" she told me, pointing to a chair. "You want coffee?" I told her no thanks. "Wait here. You can read books." she thurst workbooks 1,2, and 3 for english into my hands and left. She came back about 10 minutes later, "come." I followed her into a classroom. There wern't enough desks for everyone so some students shared. The walls were bare. One kid said in a well rehearsed voice, "stand up!" all the kids stood and in a practiced chorus said,
good morning teacher, how are you?" She responded, "fine thank you. sit down." The children sat and immediatley bagan talking. Classroom magagment was lacking. "Introuce yourslef." I told them my name, where I was from, a little bit about myself, and my age (everyone wanted to know that in Thailand). They repeasted my name and oohed when I said I was from America. The teachr nodded to me and said, "ok you teach now." I nodded and she left. ooookkk! nothing like diving right in. I had no idea what they were studying but since they couldn't seem to answer any of my questions, I went ahead and started at the beginning. Greetings, they were good at those. I went on to the animal lesson I had done with the kids at the orhpanage the day before. The teacher had popped her head in a couple times and when the bell rang, came back in. " You are very good teacher. children like your lesson very much. They like learning when you teach! Not when I teach! Come, you teach more." She led me to a different room. This was another 7th grade. "same same. good." She left. This class seemd smarter than the one I had just taught adn they picked up on the concepts faster. The teacher came back in halfway through with a couple fo other teachers and the school director. He took out his camera and staretd to film me teaching. I ignored him and kept going. The kids got really into the race to write animal names on the board and were all jumping up and down cheering and shouting out animal names. With 15 minutes to spare, I asked the teaqcher what they had been working on in class. She said "writing numbers from 1 to a million." I clarifired by asking the numerals or spelling them out? "both" she answered. We started goign through numbers. The kids' pronounciation was terrible but they coudl indeed write out every numbr i put on the board.I skepticlaly started writing higher and higher numbers. No problem. They couldn't spell cat (cot) or dog (doy) correctly bu knew how to write 99,652= ninteynine thousand six hundred fifty two correctly. Great. On our ten minute break, I was given some chips made of fried fish parts that had the texture of strofoam "fish french fries good!" she said smiling. I ate one despite the fast that the smell was enough to make me not want to eat them. "mmm" I said choking it down, "doog." "Eat more!" she told me. I said thanks but didn't. After the break I taught a lacadasical 9th grade that was shocked when I insisted that they pay attention and was then passes off to the primary english teacher (who spoke terrrrrrible english) whre I taught her 3rd graders the same lesson I had done with 7th and 9th grade. The 3rd graders were smarter, more attentive and picked it up faster so i spent the second half of the class doing directions with them. There were too many kids adn the room was too small though so we did it one pair at a time. when it wasn't their turn, the other kids cheered them on and made corrections to the directions-giver. Over 4 hours had already gone by. The teacher picked out a student, told her something in Thai and gestured for me to follow her to the manager's office. The manager was lovely although only spoke very basic broken english. It turned out that I ws staying at her house. She drove me there even though it was across the stret, and we ate lunch together making convrsation about the weather and when our birthdays were. Hers is February 14th and she is 59 years old, although she looks younger. She showed me the room I'd be staying in. The pepto bismol colored walled and ceiling matched the bed covers marvelously and the 70's era curtains. The clock on the wall didn't work and had Colgate toothpaste on its face. She told me she had to go back to school but that I should stay here. "no more english classes today" she said and left. I found a spot to wash my clothes and hung them up in the sun to dry. I went for a walk down the street by the house to explore a bit and came back about an hour later still to an empty house. I read until Pen (my new host mom) came home. She calls me her second daughter, speaks very little english and is very very very glad AND happy that I have come to thailand and am staying with her. When I professed my desire to learn Thai cooking she promised to teach me if I helped her with her english. Deal. "Are you hungry?" she asked me. " little" I admitted. It was only about 5:00. "ok!" she got out a wok and some eggs. realizing what she was doing I tried to tell her that I coudl wait and eat with her and her family later but she didn't understand. I submitted as she showed me how to make Thai fried eggs, bok choy with onions adn garlic, and scooped a heapign plate of rice for me. "we have pork if you want but sirirat tell me you no like meat." thank you sirirat! "yes, I am a vegetarian" I told her apologetically. She gave me ketchup for the eggs, calling it potato sauce. Everything was delicious and I told her about 15 times to ensure a repeat vegetarian friendly experience. She told me about her husband who was a farmer that grew rice and that he would come home around 7. We washed dishes together and moved into the living room to avoid the vicious misquitos that were biting me through my shirt.I showed her my photo book with pictures of colorado and my family. Stuck in the front was a little buddah card that said "peace" on it. She noiced it right away and I knew as soon as I saw her face that it was a terrible idea to put it there. There was a quote on the back that I especially liked and I tried to explain that to her while she interrogated me about my religion. " Yes my parents are both Christian" I lied. "No I don't want to go to a temple to worship, I'm not Buddhist." I told her I was tired and wanted to go to bed. She insisted on helping me close the blinds and asked me if the 3 blankets there would be enough to keep me wqarm. "I'll be very warm," I assured her. It was about 90 degrees outside.

Sunday January 24






I havn't had internet all week but have been writing in my journal, so I'll try to update going back a few days here...

I went over to Siriats house early to help with breakfast and get things prepared for hurch. She insisted on driving us over even though it was only about a ten minute walk (right next to where I live). On the way to church she and I stopped to visit two elderly ladies. "They are too weak and ill to come to church" Sirirat told me, "so i visit them and pray with them before church." One lady was in a wheel chair and looked like she hated her life. She had two identical white cats. different only because one had green eyes and one had yellow eyes. They refused to leave her alone even those she made angry hissing noises at them, repeatedly.

Church was a combination of singing in Thai and talking in Thai (Im fairly confident the talking parts were out of the bible). The only thing sirirat translated for me was when she brought me up in front of the whole congregation, introduced me, then had everyone pray for me. "We thank God for bringing up this missionary who loves God and loves children." I didn't realize I was a missionary. I thought I was just here volunteering. Doesn't "missionary" have a religious connotation. The irony made me laugh inside. Especially since I was the only one that understood her.

After church was a quick lunch before going back to the church where I woudl teach the orphans a collection of a bunch of other local kids English. Sirirat had told me not to worry about preparing lessons, "just bring some English games" so when she told me I had 3 hours to teach a room full of zero English speakers I felt somewhat unprepared. Good thing I was well versed in our subject matter, English!

I had a white board so I drew some pictures of a bunch of animals and then went through each one with the kids putting its name next to the picture and having the kids repeat it with me a few times. Then I watched their eyebrows raise as I erased all the names, leaving the pictures up, and handed the marker to a kid. I motioned for her to write the name for one and then give it to another kid. They remembered most of them. Then I split the class up into boys and girls, two lines and had them speed write the names of as many animals as they could think of up on the board. The girls won by a landslide and they stood up and cheered when I put a star next to their team name on the board.

Next we did directions. I drew pictures and words on the board for go straight, turn right, turn left, and stop. Then I had the kids pair up and one kids closed their eyes while we hid somthing in the room. The other kid had to direct them verbally to where the object was. They loved it and by the time we were done, they had listening to and giving simple directions down pretty well.

We went on to do colors, school supplies, and food and when i started running out of spontaneous ideas, I was glad our time was up. I reiterated an American greeting. for the 10th time with call and response and told them goodbye and good job with a big thumbs up. Phew! Though it was challenging and I was exhuasted, I felt like the students had been really engaged and learned alot already.

I cooked fried rice with the kids (their favorite). Apparently fish oil is the key ingredient, "makes everything taste so yummy yummy!" Sirirat educated me. Dinner. TV (a korean drama I coudl tell was terrible without understanding any of the words). bible study. I hung out with the kids after sirirat went to bed. A few of them were still watching tv, and 3 sisters about 7, 8, 10, were interested in me. We spent about 2 hours making faces at each other, charading, and somparing diffrences. They held an arm up to mine and commented something in Thai... I'll be tanner in a few weeks I thought to myself. They decided I was the same color as their palms. Next they held their hair up next to mine... "oooh!" They laughed. It turned into a game of gentle tickling. We all belly laughed hard. I crossed my eyes and puffed out my cheeks and squashed them so air blew out. The kids copied me and then we took turns doing it to each other. They thought this was hilarious and fell into a heap on my lap giggling. I told them I had to go home and get some sleep, charading sleep with my eyes clsoed and my head resting on my hands. They stood up to follow me back. We all held hands and skipped back singing the only American song they know, "we wish you a merry christmas." I made a mental note to teach them some better songs in english. Before I knew it we were back. As we parted ways they waved and said "goodbye, see you tomorrow!" As we had practiced in class. I smiled "goodnight!" and blew them kisses.

Saturday, January 23, 2010



Last night, despite all odds, I somehow ended up in the middle of a Christian bible thumping church mass/sing-along in siriat's living room with about 50 Thai people (just in case you were wondering Thailand is 95% Buddhist, 4% Muslim, and less than 1% Christian.) They started out the night singing "Jesus Loves Me" in Thai. I felt rather out of place as a somewhat not-very-religious-person and the only non Thai speaker there. Siriat stepped in to translate the bible verses for me. "Very important," she said, "Jesus loves you too." "Thank you." I replied. When all the people from the Bagkok church group were leaving this morning they held my hands and said, "God Bless You." and "see you tomorrow" (they wouldn't). At least they had their religious phrase down...

This morning after breakfast, Siriat looked at me and said,
"come, we go."
"where are we going?"
"You come to funeral with me."
I thought I miss heard her. She sounded very cavalier about it. But just in case, I asked if what I was wearing was ok for a funeral. She said, "yes, yes, come, we go."
It was indeed a funeral. A buddhist one. It seemed more like a party but when I asked Siriat if funerals in Thailand were for celebration of a life or mourning of a death, she told me they were for mourning. Monks chanted and family members spoke for a few hours. Everything was covered in hundreds of flowers. Then we ate quite a feast. The man who died was a doctor and wanted to donate his body to the hospital for research so at the end of the funeral the ambulance came to take away his casket. The ambulance was about an hour late. Siriat told me that she overheard the phone conversation saying they had stopped to eat lunch and would be there after. Everyone that came got a pen and a plan white canvas bag, "souvineers" Siriat told me.

After the funeral Siriat gave a very old woman a ride home. Her son had left without her. She told me to walk her to the door of her house but when I said goodbye, she followed me back to the car. I kept trying to insist that she shouldn't since she could barely walk to begin with but she had no idea what I was saying. I love really old people. Nearby the lady's house was some sort of factory for various crafts. Siriat stopped there before we went back to her house. She said it was run by the king's wife (I think). We saw how they mde coffee spreading beans out on mats in the sun to dry, wove fabric on looms, made ceramic pots, made caprets and made paper by hand. When I asked how much the women get paid to do this she told me only about five dollars a day. "But better than no job," she added nodding. Deperessing. Their handiwork was beautiful and it was clear how much time and effort went into doing it.

"I would take you to Burma today," she told me, "But I need to rest. You do too."

Thursday, January 21, 2010

Initial Impressions


So it turns out that I am actually staying in Chiang Rai. In a little room down behind the church down the street from Siriat's home. It seemed strange at first that I wouldn't stay with my host family but I think it will be nice to be able to get away now and then since her house is so busy. This weekend siriat is hosting 30 people from a church group in Bangkok at her house so things have been crazy preparing everthing. The kids from her orphanage had the day off school today and I spent all day with them helping to prepare the foods we needed to cook dinner. I sat on the floor with the kids from 6 in the morning until about 11, peeling and cutting garlic, onions, and ginger. No one speaks any English excpt for Siriat but everyone is incredibly friendly. I really enjoyed getting to hang out with the kids and they seemed really excited to be able to interact with a foriegner. After we were done preparing food, I went and got my Thai-English phrase book so the kids and I could at least have some form of communication. Even if it was just pointing to words. They couldn't read English letters for the most part since Thai is all characters completley different than ours. Luckily my book also had the Thai lettering. A few of the kids went and grabbed their English workbooks from school so they could show me what they were learning. I was suprised by how advanced the books seemed from the maximum of 3 words the kids could actually say in English. We traded words and phrases for a few hours. Pointing at things and saying the words for them or drawing pictures and reiterating their meaning in both languages. It seemed like the kids were picking up some words and I was starting to get down a few phrases in Thai. It will be a dificult language to learn. Siriat said that on sunday she has a group of about 40 kids she would like for me to teach after bible study. She is very religious and does everything in the name of God. It doesn't matter to me whose name she's doing it in, she seems to be involved in everything and the amount of good deeeds she does daily is incredible. She is running 3 orphanages on the board for several schools, running a women's group for vocational skills like emrboiderysewing and computers, and helping them fund the materials they need to work as well as helping them sell their wares. She already told me I have to come to church with her family. I didn't object. She said it was very important. Every night after dinner she lets the kids from the orphanage come over the her house and watch TV. The trade off is that after they watch TV, they have to worship and do bible study with her. She's smart like that. I am very excited to work with her on as many projects as I can. I think that there are alot of great learnin opportunities here and i intend to take advantage of that. Siriat seems more than willing to let me as well. Her hospitality and kindness are unmatched.